The following was written by my friend Robin Matthews from San Francisco, CA.. It it is reprinted, and edited by me with her permission, from 3 emails she has sent so far while on Safari in South Africa. My wife and her daughter have been planning a similar trip for several years, and hope to someday actually do it.
Thanks Robin……………..
Part I
I’ve arrived at Djuma Vuyatella Lodge http://www.djuma.com/ this afternoon, the second of two camps that I’ll be staying at during my safari – I’ll be here 3 nights and was at Kings Camp http://kingscamp.com/ for two.
Let me just say that this trip has been the most amazing thing that I’ve ever done in my life, bar none; I HIGHLY recommend it, no matter what the cost. From what I’ve seen so far, I would have paid double what I paid and would have already gotten my money’s worth. The wildlife I’ve seen has been phenomenal and is almost surreal; it’s kind of like I’m in the middle of a National Geographic special!
Entering the road to Kings Camp on the 7th, I immediately saw some Cape Buffalo, followed by Impala and Warthogs. After getting set up in my room, I had lunch in their dining area and saw a herd of Impala running and leaping past the window, and that was without even going out on safari (i.e. a drive)! Drives are held twice a day – 6:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. – and run about 3 hours each. They feed you constantly – it’s like being on a cruise, but on land! You get a snack before you go out in the morning (coffee, tea, juice and muffins) and are entertained by Vervet Monkeys who make their appearance to try and steal or connive you to give them some muffins, both of which occurred. While having lunch, that first day, I saw one of them sneak into the open dining area and swap a piece of bread off of a table. He then came back and hopped on the table behind me and stuck his head in the sugar bowl!! TOO funny. Couldn’t get my camera out fast enough before he was chased off, but that gives you an idea on how bold these little buggers are in their ritual morning appearances! They tag team it better than our kittens do and that’s really saying something!
You’ll stop for a snack and beverage of your choice during the drive, then come back for a full breakfast around 9:30 a.m. or so. You’ll then have down time until lunch at 1:00 p.m. as the animals pretty much take a siesta during the heat of the day – there’s a pool there, a library, and beautiful grounds, so you’re not bored. You’ll then have a full blown lunch, which is really like a mini dinner! Then off on the afternoon/evening game drive you go, stopping for a snack and beverage at sunset as you watch the sun go down. You then come back to the Lodge around 7:15 p.m. or so, then off to a big dinner at 8:00 p.m.. Unbelievable. The food is amazing, and if I don’t gain back the 10 pounds that I lost before the trip, I’ll truly be shocked.
The first night after dinner, I return to my room to find a hot bubble bath waiting for me with candles lit. I don’t usually take baths and prefer showers, but I took one THAT night! Very, very classy. Besides an indoor shower, they also had an OUTDOOR shower on your private patio you can use, as well, which was pretty cool. I chose not to use it, but only because it was so humid outside. It’s been hot and humid the whole trip (very similar to Florida) and haven’t had a long sleeved shirt on over my t-shirt yet. I was told on tonight’s drive at Djuma, however, to be prepared for it being chilly in the morning until the sun really gets high around 8:30 a.m. or so, so we’ll see. It will probably feel good to me, and with being used to S.F. weather in the morning, I’ll REALLY be surprised if I get chilled. I’ll come prepared again, however, just in case.
Wildlife seen over the two nights and 4 drives at King’s Camp included Giraffe, Zebra, Elephants, Lions (both male and female and a 6 week old cub), Leopards (including two 5 month old cubs), Cape Buffalo, Impala, Springbok, Grey Duiker, Genet, Mongoose, a black Mombasa Snake (one of the most deadliest in the world), another type of small Antelope I’m totally blanking on the name of, at the moment (which is a good thing I’m keeping a journal in a book that has photos and a checklist of a host of animals, birds, and reptiles), a Rhino, a Hippo, and more variety of birds that I’ve ever seen before. I may be forgetting a few, but you get the idea. If I had to pick the two most impressive things in those drives they were the mother Leopard with her babies and the Lion with hers. We had seen the lions before, but never saw the cub. We went by again last night on the way back to camp, and 3 lionesses were lying there with the cub. The cub was up crying and climbing around the mother until she finally laid over so he could suckle. Absolutely precious.
The other event, which happened this morning, was the female Leopard came back to her cubs. We had seen the 5 month old brother and sister both days, but the mother was nowhere to be found. We were told that wasn’t uncommon, as she would leave for a day or two to hunt, and would then come back. The cubs never leave the area where they are left, so they were pretty easy to track down each day. We went by in the morning, didn’t see the mother, and only saw one cub. We came back later, and the mother had just gotten there and was leading the cubs away. We followed them and then our ranger/guide drove over in front of a road that it appeared they would cross and shut down the engine. The mother came right at us, and instead of crossing the road, she walked towards our vehicle, walked right next to it and around the back and settled down to drink from a large puddle of water that was by our right rear wheel. Both cubs immediately followed and the three of them stayed at the puddle for several minutes. Luckily, I was sitting on that side of the jeep and got some absolutely amazing photos before they wandered off. Even our guide was taking pictures with his camera and saying what an incredible sighting this was. Very, very cool.
We also tracked down a large male Leopard who was hunting two Impala. Only saw his tail end, as birds alerted the Impala, who took off. Never did see his full body, but you could tell by what we were able to see that he was huge. Very cool seeing the hunting in action, and we were right in the middle of it.
So, how to beat that? I was picked up at an airstrip 10 minutes from the lodge to be taken to Djuma. I was transported on a 20 minute flight south down to the Sabi Sands area in a small Cessna. How small, you ask? I was sitting next to the pilot and there were two seats behind him! (And no, the luggage didn’t get weighed, nor was I told to turn off my cell phone! LOL!) Unbelievable!! It was actually a lot smoother than I anticipated and with flying only 1,000 feet up, I got some incredible views of the Bush. The pilot said we’d be flying low enough that I might be able to see some Elephants, especially near some of the watering holes, but no such luck. Got to the lodge, got a quick tour, got checked into my room, and 10 minutes later, got picked up for the afternoon game drive.
The terrain is a bit different than at Kings Camp; there are more shrubs and shorter grasses there, whereas in Djuma, the vegetation is much higher and the leaves on the trees bigger and greener. There’s a BIG watering hold in front of the lodge, and as we were driving around it leaving the camp area, saw 2 Cape Buffalo lounging in the water along with a Hippo and baby. We encountered a number of Impala, and then soon found ourselves, literally, in the middle of a herd of at LEAST 100 or more of the Buffalo, many of whom had babies under a month old! Talk about crazy. Our driver drives right into the middle of them (which we DIDN’T do at Kings Camp), shuts off the engine, and we’re immediately surrounded by these Buffalo as they’re walking past us meandering on down the road, with a number of them having birds on their backs and heads hitching a ride. They all gave us looks, but overall, seemed unconcerned that we were there. A couple of them had maulings on their hindquarters, which I’m guessing were either from a Lion or Hyenas, though they obviously had survived the incident. We then continued on our way to a watering hole that had 4 Hippos in it, one of which was a baby of about 3 weeks old, who was hamming it up big time. At one point, two of the Hippos approached each other and touched noses like they were kissing! Unbelievable. Got some great shots of the baby, as well as one of the adults giving a huge yawn. We then saw a beautiful Leopard a short ways away from that.
We continued on our way, and soon saw several Vultures in a tree hanging out. Our driver told us that just up the road, there were two Impalas fighting and that was why the Vultures were hanging out, waiting to see if one of them got killed in the fight. We rounded the bend, and soon learned it wasn’t two Impalas there, which he told us to throw us off (not that it mattered because we had no clue what we were going to be seeing), but two lionesses, one of which was totally passed out sleeping, with the other lying next to a half eaten Impala that she had killed that was right in front of her by her paw. The driver pulled up within MAYBE a car length from her, where we and another jeep sat for a long time watching her watch us. Again some truly amazing photos. She laid over for awhile on her side and her stomach was just bulging. The guide told us she had probably killed and eaten something either earlier that day, or maybe yesterday, because otherwise, the Impala would have been completely eaten. I continue to be amazed how the animals don’t seem too concerned by us being there; the guides are locals and experts, obviously, with the animal behavior of all the wildlife there, and as long as you stay seated in the open jeeps and not make any sudden moves, you’re fine. If you were out of the jeep on foot it would be a significant problem. Still, it’s a bit disconcerting at times, especially around the Lions, Leopards and Buffalo.
We then stopped back by where the Hippos and baby were for a snack and drink, then headed back to camp. By this time, it’s quite dark, and the tracker, who sits on a single seat in front of the left front wheel, shines a hand held spotlight into the trees back and forth across the road looking for nocturnal wildlife. Saw an Owl and a Chameleon (how the tracker saw a green chameleon in the green leaves of a tree at night is beyond me, but he did). We then turned into the road heading towards the lodge. Almost immediately, we spot a female Leopard, who was busy marking all along the side of the road (the guide said she’s getting ready to go into heat, and she’s marking for any males in the area). We follow her for several minutes, then she spots a rabbit and begins to stalk it. She takes off after it, and the rabbit JUST got away. The Leopard took off running down the road with us following, which is how we determined she had missed the rabbit. She stopped running and began meandering down the road again with us continuing to follow her (now mind you, we’re in the middle of the road and she’s on the shoulder) when the spotlight picks up some green eyes down the middle of the road – turns out it was a Hyena. The Hyena came towards the Leopard and started stalking her (she had, by this time, meandered into the brush on the right side of the road). The Hyena goes back up the road and immediately comes back. In the meantime, a girl in the back of our jeep alerted the driver that a second Hyena was next to us on the right. We look over and there it is even with where I’m sitting, JUST a car length or two away!! They then both go after the Leopard, who leaped up into a tree that was there right next to us out of harms way just in time! The Hyena’s lose interest and leave and down the leopard comes continuing on our way. Incredible!
I was then walked back to my room on arrival (we are not, under any circumstances, allowed to walk alone at night, either early in the morning or at night, without an escort, and after seeing the Hyenas and Leopard that close to our lodge, I can see why! When my escort flashed his light off the back of my deck, which overlooks the watering hole, here’s this gigantic Hippo meandering by!!! My escort assured me that was a small one!! Crazy! I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!
You’re going to love this – there are 4 Cheetahs hanging around the area; we’re going to try and track them down tomorrow. Hopefully, we’ll find them and I’ll be able to get some good pictures of them for you. We’ll see.
SO, that’s pretty much an abbreviated version of my time in Africa, so far. Can you see now why I’m completely blown away? I keep saying unbelievable and amazing and incredible, but believe me when I say that those adjectives don’t come close to how things are here. I’m up to 600 photos as of tonight with 4 more drives coming. I finally remembered about the video capability of the camera, so have begun shooting some clips. We’ll then tour Cape Town and down the Coast for a couple of days before flying home, leaving here on the 18th and getting home on the 19th.
Part II
Greetings one and all. Had another great day on safari today. On the morning drive, once leaving the camp, we immediately saw a group of Chacma Baboons trot across the road in front of us. Shortly thereafter, we saw another lion, a huge group of Cape Buffalo at a watering hole, Impala, Bushbuck, Springbok, Steenbok, Banded Mongoose, Hippos, and the highlight of them all, a mother Leopard with her cub of about a month old! VERY precious. Took a number of photos, but it was very difficult to get good ones of the baby, as the grass was tall and it was so small, blending into it’s environment perfectly. Got a couple that are quite cute, though, which I’ll include in my postings on FB when I get back home. The afternoon drive sightings included a greater Kudu, Zebra, Cape Buffalo, Impala, Warthogs, a Genet, a male and female Waterbuck, a Chameleon walking across the road, and the coup of the day (along with the Leopard and cub) was a Cheetah and HER cub of about 7 or 8 months old – VERY cool!
I wasn’t sure if I was going to get the opportunity to see a Cheetah, as the four that had been in the area the day I arrived apparently headed south out of the lodge’s jurisdiction to drive. Fortunately, another jeep from a different camp spotted the mother and cub walking across a road and followed them into the grasses where they laid down. A lot of the guides from the various camps and reserves are on the same radio frequency, so when one group spots a good sighting, they’ll let the other drivers know so that their clients can also get an opportunity to see the wildlife. It seems to be a very good system, and everyone is appreciative from the guides and trackers to those of us on vacation. Cheetahs are elusive to begin with, so being able to see these two was a gift. Took a bunch of pictures of them and got some great shots.
Had a slow start on the wildlife sighting tonight, as the weather was windy and rain was coming. My driver/guide told me the reason they were so scarce is because when it’s windy, they tend to go into more heavily brushed areas to wait it out; the wind keeps them from hearing any predators coming their way, so it increases their vulnerability. Makes sense. As the wind died down a bit on the last hour of the drive, that was when we saw the most wildlife. In addition, another jeep from a different lodge spotted a rhino and had begun tracking it. We responded and picked up the trail, blazing our own trail, once again through the brush. Ended up being so thick that even MY driver couldn’t get in there, so we had to give up the hunt. Tomorrow we’ll try and track it again. I’d also like to see some Elephant here, though they appear to be quite scarce for some reason. That really surprises me, as there is elephant dung all over the place. I’ve got 4 more drives before leaving, so it’s still possible that might happen. We’ll see. It makes me even more happy to have seen the herd of them at Kings Camp, including babies. The Cheetahs, however, were extra special, as they weren’t at Kings Camp and are so elusive.
Tomorrow after the first game drive and breakfast, I’ll be taken into one of the local villages for a few hours to see how they live there and learn about their culture. My tracker on the jeep is from the village, so I should be able to get a lot of insight on how life is there. Should be very interesting. No bush hikes are being offered right now, as the brush is too high to make it effective, but I’m glad the village trip is still a go.
Once leaving Djuma, it’s unlikely I’ll have internet access, but I’ll try to give updates while still here. Once I get home, I’ll start going through the photos and planning my strategy on what to post, so stay tuned.
Part III
Today was the best day in the bush, thus far. Just when I thought things couldn’t get any better, they did! On the morning drive, we came across two Leopard cubs – about 16 months old – playing together, chasing each other around and pouncing on each other. My ranger and tracker then heard the mother Leopard calling the cubs, and both started heading towards her, with us following. Moments later, we encounter the mother, and the cubs immediately began giving the mother loves. It started out with all three of them in a pile purring up a storm and giving the mother kisses, then the two males started playing together while mom watched. Up and over each other they went, chasing each other up and down trees – it was exactly like watching our 3 kittens play at home. Then, one would explore a little while on it’s own while the other would come back to his mother and start grooming her. It was absolutely amazing to watch.
A Hyena then made an appearance and the two cubs took off after it, stalking it. The mother was sitting next to our jeep at the side of the road watching them. The driver explained the cubs wouldn’t be able to take down the Hyena on their own yet – only smaller prey like rabbits - and that the mother was just sitting there watching them to make sure they didn’t get into any trouble. They eventually came back and all three headed off into the bush. We began following them, but lost them in the heavy brush. A short while later, after rolling over trees and bushes – literally – there in front of us is the Hyena! It’s absolutely amazing how these guys can track! Unbelievable! They eventually caught up with the Leopards and we hung out by them while my driver gave directions to another jeep from a different reserve on where to find us so their guests could witness the sighting, as well (a common occurrence that happens, which is a win-win for everyone concerned). We then headed off for more exploring.
Saw more Impala, Kudu, Waterbuck, Zebra, and Hippo, then finally spotted an Elephant, which we had been trying to hunt down the past couple of days. On our way back to the lodge from the drive, we came across a large group of Wildebeast and Impala together. The Wildebeast were just ambling along, while a number of the impala were racing around chasing each other and going nuts! They’re absolutely gorgeous creatures - as common here as deer are for us in the States – but when they run, they’ll run, run, run, and then will leap up into the air; then run, run, run some more and leap again. Simply beautiful to watch. While that was going on, two male Impalas were squaring off with each other and charging into each other, butting their heads together, clearly starting to “feel their oats” as breeding time is fast approaching for them. Really cool to watch.
After lunch, my tracker, Otis, took me to the village where both he, and my ranger, Textin live, and I was able to get a personal tour of his village and a smaller neighboring one. The poverty level is stunning, as is their struggle for water. We saw several women using a wheelbarrow loaded with big plastic containers that they had just filled with water down at the river bringing them home. The water has to be boiled before it’s able to be used, and if it’s not done, the risk of cholera is great. I’m not quite sure what they do in their winter when everything dries up – I THINK he said there is a pump house they can go to somewhere, though the one we drove by was empty. Unbelievable. There is no indoor plumbing, and before the government came out not too terribly long ago and built everyone toilets, they were going in the bush or near the river, which, obviously, was compromising their drinking water. The outhouses are a big improvement, and people are happy to have them. As it was Sunday, I was not able to go to the school and be serenaded by the children, however, everywhere we went, the kids would come out and wave at us as we drove by. It sure gave a reality check on what’s important and what’s not, and what all of us take so much for granted – it was a powerful, life changing experience for me.
After lunch, I went into the viewing tower overlooking the field and watering hole in front of the lodge and watched a herd of probably 60 or 70 Impala grazing, and others doing the running/jumping thing. It was such a trip to watch – one minute they’d be grazing, and the next some would break away and run like hell across the field and back, then settle back down to graze. It was the craziest thing to watch; no rhyme or reason to it other than the fact that they were having fun and it felt good! There was also a Waterbuck and Warthog in the mix, with the Warthog periodically charging after a group of the Impala scattering them because HE wanted to graze where they were. Then in the foreground, you’ve got a tree full of Vervet Monkeys being as comical as ever, and you’ve got a good picture of the scene. One of the monkeys would rush down out of the tree and start running like mad across the grass toward an impala. He’d then screech to a halt and stand up on his hind legs to look around, then dive back into the grass and keep heading towards the Impala. The Impala, of course, saw him coming a mile away, and when he got within a few feet from him, he’d shake his head and the monkey would run like hell back to the tree and back up it! TOO funny! It happened several times until I realized on one of her runs, she had a baby hanging onto her stomach! Guess she was teaching him how to torment an Impala properly!!
The 4:00 p.m. game drive then came and off we went again. Saw some Zebra and Impala together, some Steenbok, and then saw another Elephant across a valley. We plowed through the brush to try and get closer to it, but ended up losing track of it. By that time, we met up with another jeep from our camp who was dropping off a new couple from the U.K. that just arrived for their honeymoon and began touring around together. They weren’t in the jeep 3 minutes when we rounded a bend and here’s this GIGANTIC bull Rhino in the middle of the road! All of us were thrilled though the couple from the U.K. were kind of freaked out, as they were not prepared for how close we actually get to the animals here – it took me a little getting use to, as well, as it’s unbelievable that we can get so close and the animals don’t seem too concerned with us being there (that would certainly change if we were on foot, or if anyone stood up or was doing any quick, crazy movements). That sighting finished off “the Big Five” for me here at Djuma – I had done the same at King’s Camp. (The Big Five are sightings of Lion, Leopard, Buffalo, Hippo, and Rhino).
Within 5 minutes of that sighting, our driver pulls over and the tracker gets off of the tracking seat in front of the jeep and takes a seat inside the jeep before Texin drove on. That is always an indication that we’re going to be coming upon a cat of some kind. Sure enough, we pull up and find two female lions crashed out on the grass. One was lying with her head on the ground watching us periodically, while the other was sacked out on her back with her paws in the air!! TOO funny; again, JUST like our cats at home. Our driver/ranger told us that these were the same lions that we had seen the other day with the impala kill. If that wasn’t spectacular enough, they were lying on the grass in front of a large watering hole with a spectacular sunset going down. I mean, REALLY??? You can’t make this stuff up. Absolutely amazing. As we continued on into the night drive, the spotlight picked up Impala, Steenbok, several Cape Buffalo in the road, a Bush Baby, and yet again, a green Chameleon on green leaves of a tree. How our tracker can see that is beyond me; we can barely see it while we’re standing still and the light is shining on it! Amazing.
What a wonderful way to end my last afternoon/night drive at Djuma.
I’ll have one more drive tomorrow morning, then I come back, have breakfast, shower and pack, and be ready to be taken to the airstrip at 11:00 a.m. for the 20 minutes charter flight to Krurger Airport, then onto Cape Town. I’m looking forward to seeing Cape Town and the Coast (I should have an opportunity to see Baboons on the road to the Point, as well as Penguins)! Don’t know if I’ll have internet access down there so this might be my last posting until I get home on the 19th. I’ve got close to 1100 pictures taken, so far (there IS a morning drive tomorrow, after all), so I should have great fun in going through them and deciding what to post. Of those pictures, there are a number of segments of video clips, as well, including the leopard cubs playing. I’ll post some of them if I can figure out how to do it.
I’ve said it earlier, but this has been the most amazing thing I’ve ever done in my life. It has been a profound experience, and I’m SO glad that there are places like this left in the world for people to experience. I have no doubt that I’ll be back.
Robin…………..
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