Coba, which means “water agitated by the wind” became the most important city in the northeast region of the Yucatan Peninsula in it’s day. Coba is definitely a CLASSIC site dating from around 600 to 900 A.D. Situated between two large lakes, Coba and Macanzoc, the city was linked to many distant places by an extensive network of causeways (roads) or “sacbe”. Archaeologists have discovered 42 sacbe so far, the largest number of pre-Colombian roads in North America. The people lived in thatched roof huts surrounding these stone cities where they raised their crops and families, retiring to the temple cities on special occasions. Coba has been divided into “groups” of ruins often named for the most important structure in the group.

The first discoveries at this site were made in 1897 by Teobert Maler who followed the rumors he had heard from the natives as to “giant drawings” in the jungle. (This first picture is an artist’s rendition of the 2nd picture of the actual stone relief)


The major explorations of Coba were undertaken between 1926 and 1930 by J. Eric S. Thompson and Harry Pollock. The first efforts at opening and examining the ruins were undertaken in 1973 by the Mexican government and are still underway. It is estimated that there are over 6,500 structures at this one site. Coba was a farming and fishing village self-sufficient and growing. It’s architecture, created both by the ruling class and different socioeconomic levels of the population, has led archaeologists to suggest that this city grew out of the fusion of various villages in the pre-Classic period The buildings are typically Mayan with Korbel false arches and lace-work roof combs which added to the height and impressiveness of the structures. It will probably prove to be the largest site in Mexico and the Nohoch Mul pyramid alone is built on the scale of the Peten pyramids towering a full twelve stories over the jungle.
The Coba Group
The large pyramid here is called the “Church” and has been partly restored

Between the “Church” pyramid and the road lies a small unreconstructed ball court with two parallel walls similar to those in practically all the other pre-Columbian sites throughout Mexico.



The Las Pinturas Group

The main temple pyramid here is crowned with a small building that still has some of the original painting on the front cornice.
The plaza in front of the pyramid has been partially cleared and is distinguished by a collonade of round pillars and a number of altars plus a small temple with four steps in front.

The Macanxoc Group
This group lies between Lake Macanxoc and Lake Sacalpuc. Here we find he finest stelae at Coba. Coba contains a large number of stelae that bear dates ranging from the possible foundation of the city in the year 600 B. C. to the 15th cenury, when the city was finally abandoned.

The Nohoch Mul Group
This group is domiated by the towering 42 meter high Nohoch Mul pyramid. There are 120 steps to climb to the peak of Nohuch Mul. This is the tallest pyramid in the Northen Yucatan.

The outstanding item here is the stelae in front of the temple base which is an excellent example of Mayan art. Here we see a ruler standing upon two kneeling slaves with two more kneeling slaves facing the first pair.


There are many other sites to see in addition to the three groups mentioned in this report. The full size of the Coba site can best be appreciated when one realizes that the furthest outpost from the center of the city is at Ixtil, a full 19 kilometers from the main groupings.
It will take many years before extensive reconstruction is undertaken here since the job of just clearing the underbrush has hardly begun. There is a plan to continue the paved road all the way to Chichen Itza. Hundreds of pyramids have not been touched, stelae no doubt remain undiscovered.
General admission is $51 pesos. Senior citizens with an ID card enter free of charge.
I really recommend rental of a bicycle or bicycle cart for two for transportation around the extensive site. The bicycle cart for two is $60 pesos plus a tip for the driver. He stops at all of the sites, waits for you, and then takes you on to the next site.

Beverages are available for purchase at the entrance and a very nice restaurant is on the site. We had lunch and found the menu interesting, the food delicious, and the service excellent. The restaurant overlooked one of the lakes and the breeze was most welcome. We highly recommend it.

Some additional pictures from the trip:



This article was written and photographed by Cancun Suz, my beautiful wife.
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